13th December 1944

Wednesday
Up at 9.  Hard frost but a beautiful bright morning. 

Writing, then to town this afternoon.  Thick fog came on.  Home, and had tea there.  Father seemed very well and happy.  Wrote to Capt. Folkard, telling him I was trying to get to Wisbech, and asking him to allow any decision on my War Agricultural Committee future to stand over until the result is known.

Nothing from Wisbech, nor from Daphne, from whom I have expected a letter for the last fortnight.

Letter and testimonial came from Sam – nothing to criticise in either, but he is obviously very sore indeed.

Left home at 6 to go to Boxted, but felt ill at ease and reluctant for some reason to travel on the main road.  Went by way of Lexden and Cook’s Lane to West Bergholt.  Went right round by West Wood, and at the back of Pictsbury, down Coach Road, past the bungalow where Hull lived 16 years ago, to Woodside.  In a field near Pictsbury Wood saw a curious light, like a bicycle lamp, in the middle of the field.


Tonight made a new will, and wrote out 2 copies.  Rockets falling occasionally.  Fog very thick.

12th December 1944

Tuesday
Up rather late.  Fine and dull.  A lot of ‘planes about in hazy cloud.  Writing all the morning, then went to Colchester and saw Poulter.  Told me Sam had now written a testimonial, and that I should have it tomorrow.  Sam is still in a bad mood.  Poulter wanted to know whether I intended to tell Hull?  But I said certainly not until I knew whether I had got Wisbech or not.

Went home for a couple of hours.  Father very well.  Told him all that I had done about Wisbech.  Miss Payne very excited about the whole thing.

To Dedham, and found Mrs Sisson and Rhoda Dawson making puppets.  Five fire engines in Dedham Street, but no fire.  Apparently a false alarm.  Told Mrs. Sisson about Wisbech.  She emphasised the importance of the Penrose connection, but said she thought that Lionel Penrose did not have much to do with the one at Bradenham or with his aunt, Miss Peckover.

Old Canon Rendall is apparently sinking.

Managed to leave at 7, only 10 minutes before the sirens sounded.  Two divers went by, somewhere beyond Higham, perhaps beyond Hadleigh.  Only one searchlight was used, in a vague, uncertain manner.


Boxted by 9, and early and hopefully to bed.

11th December 1944

Monday
Up at 8.30.  Lovely day.  Thousands of ‘planes going out.  Cold and frosty.   

Went to Holly Trees and saw Poulter.  He had seen Sam, and told him of my plans and that I should like a reference from him, but Sam was very annoyed and turned awkward, saying that he will have to think this over.  He never for a moment imagined that I should get away.

Went to Town Hall, to see Gunton, and to my surprise (and delight) was paid £22 outstanding salary which I had forgotten about.

Called for Diana and took her to tea in the upper room at Last’s.  She wanted to go to a cinema afterwards, but I did not feel well enough and cried off, which I am afraid rather annoyed her.  Left, and headed for Boxted at half past six, in rising fog.  A little gunfire to the E, but no alarm.  Went on to Little Rivers, and had a long talk with the Roses.  Stuart thinks I ought to go, if only to show Colchester that I am not going to be Sam’s lackey.  Dodo was very kind and gave me a delicious supper.

Got back to Woodside at 11, and there was an alarm for 10 minutes a few minutes later.  Went to look around, but nothing done.  Fog quite thick.

Cycling out tonight saw a large American truck filled with cases of whisky loading up at Wheeler’s place in Culver Street.  Yet an Englishman can’t get any spirits at all.

Poulter told me that at Pascall and Cann’s last auction sale, a child’s pram and a child’s tricycle together made £52.


Rain began as I went to bed.

10th December 1944

Sunday
Woke very early, and was given a can of hot water.  Got down at 8, to find a cold bright morning, the crescent moon still showing, the street lamps alight, and great sheets of crimson cirrus cloud in the east, where the sun struggled up.

Caught the 8.50 to Ipswich, jogging slowly along by Six Mile Bottom, across the Devil’s Dyke, to Newmarket, with its rows of railway horseboxes, and so to Bury.  Should always have liked to have had the Museum there.  Then on to Stowmarket, Haughley and Ipswich.  Big crowd there, but only 18 minutes to wait for the Colchester train.

Lunched on sandwiches and soup at the Milk Bar in St John’s Street, then went to Holly Trees to wash and shave.  Saw Poulter and told him all.  He was quite shaken - Hull will wreck the Museum, Poulter will retire in 1946, and what happens then? But then he said it was useless – Councillor Sam Blomfield was terrified of “the little man’s shattering rages”, and would not even mention my return to him. Then why the hell, I ask, did Sam make use of me during these last 4 years, often to my very great inconvenience?  “Sam’s that sort” he said, “He’ll use you to the last minute, but he won’t fight Hull for you.”

We sat and gloomed in the flat this dull December afternoon, with occasional explosions far away, and the old man said these words, which have so often been said in one form or another by people who have given years of their lives for the benefit of Colchester: “I wish I’d never come here.  It was a mistake ever to leave the North.”

He said that if I go, he will not stay beyond his time, and that he was only keeping Holly Trees for me to come back to.

Feeling of great sadness.  Rain began to fall, heavily.  Went across to Winnie’s and had sausages for tea.  Terrible gale sprang up, almost due South, so was blown out to Boxted in record time, amidst sheets of rain.  Suddenly, just at the corner of Horkesley Road, heard sirens sounding an “all clear”.  Felt terrified, as having heard no alarm, I wondered if I had had another “black-out” and missed it altogether, but before the “All-clear” had died away the aerodrome sirens gave an alarm, about a minute later, Colchester began an alarm as well.  Heavy rain still falling, but felt I must stay out at any rate for a time, to see what on earth could happen on such a night.  Set off round by the Queen’s and Holly Lodge, right past the Observer Post (just a glimpse of a helmeted head above the parapet) to Boxted village.  Gunfire to the South, probably at Bradwell, and a few flashes through the rain.  Two ‘divers’ could be heard very faintly, then, just by Boxted Hall turning, another sounded much closer, and cut out.  Very alarming not having any idea how far it might drift in such a wind, but nothing whatever happened, and it must have been blown far away perhaps to fall quite silently on some village or farmhouse.

Went down by Boxted Mill, and decided to call on the Rushburys, for want of anything else.  Don't know who is at Higham at the moment.  The rain stopped, and the “all clear” rang out far and near us.  I went by the gates of Thorington Hall – where, I wonder, are the Penroses at this very moment?  4,000 miles away, safe in another world.

Henry Rushbury was at home, as well as “Birdie” and little Janet who was busy designing the most delightful Christmas cards.  Henry Rushbury had just come back from the North, and we spent a pleasant hour talking about Northern Museums and Art Galleries.  Told him I had hoped to have gone to the Kirk Collection at York, had it not been for the war.  Left them at 10 o’clock, stars now glittering.  No aircraft about.  Boxted at 10.30.  Miss Bentley very glad to see me.  Told her there might be a chance of my going to Wisbech.  She said that on Friday night a rocket fell near Layer Breton, with a tremendous explosion, and that on either Thursday or Friday a ‘diver’ fell at Mersea, doing a lot of damage, broken windows and so forth.

Bed at 11.30, very tired, and hopeful of a quiet night.  Terribly anxious about Wisbech.

9th December 1944 - Wisbech - Cambridge

Saturday
Woke about 7, to the sound of people in wooden soled shoes walking along the river brink.  Had a very good night.  Knocked up at 8 by a maid called Bella, with a terrific uproar.  Quite a good breakfast.

Sat opposite the fat schoolteacher, and another middle-aged woman who looked as if she might be a school-mistress as well.  The manageress of the “White Lion”.  Mrs Smith, came in and said to them:

“Did you hear about Mr Hoyles?”
“Which Mr Hoyles?”
The one you know.”
“What, West Hoyles? of Queen’s Road? What about him?”
“Well, I don't want to give you a shock, but he’s dead.  He died suddenly last night.”
“Dead?” said the fat woman.  “My God, how awful.  Are you sure?”
“Well, my husband told me, and he got it from the Club last night.  Died right suddenly, after he’d drunk a cup of tea.”
“But how awful!  His wife and daughter were going off to Hunstanton for the weekend, and she asked me to go over tonight to see him as usual.  Of course he’d been ill, but how awfully sudden.”
“Yes, well there is its, I’m sure it’s right, because I heard they were all talking about it at the Club.”

She went out, and the two women settled down to eat, because whoever might have died after drinking a cup of tea, tea must be drunk and sausages (however doubtful) must be eaten.  After a time the fat woman said thoughtfully: “Well, my God, what a thing to happen.  I must go over there right away.  The only thing is I must go over to school first, and I don't want to wear my fur coat there, so I suppose I shall have to come back and change before I go to Queen’s Road.”

The sallow one replied “Yes, that would be best … Sad about poor old Hoyles.  I always think it must be terrible for old men when they see people they know dying off.”  The other said, “Yes, I know, two girls I went to school with have died during the last year.  It makes you think doesn’t it?”  And she sat staring out of the window at the grey sky and the grey river, and that grand sweep of houses, banks and inns, wondering when the time would come for her to face eternity and join old Mr Hoyles and the two school-friends.  All the time bombers droned over, one by one.

Cold morning, but the sun came through the haze later.  Walked about the town, and admired the houses and the buildings, pushing my way through dense crowds of people.

Began looking for places where I might live, but only “in secret”, as chickens must not be counted before they are hatched.  The ideal would be to get a couple of rooms in the Crescent or in Museum Square, or better still, on North or South Brink.

Walked into the Church (a most extraordinary building with a double nave) and saw Canon Stallard again, who was just gong to take a children’s service.  He was very affable, and said he hoped I had liked the Museum.  Seemed quite anxious for me to take the job.  Looked round the church for a few minutes.  The double nave makes the place appear almost square.  There is a very long chancel to the N. nave, which contains 2 good wall-monuments, one to Parke, which is very fine, and a brass to Sir Thomas Bramstone, Constable of the Castle in 1401.  Must discover whether he is any connection with the Bramstons of Skreens.  Unfortunately the chancel is too dark to see the monuments properly.  Several good 18th century monuments, and a very fine and large coat of arms.

Caught train for Cambridge at 11.10, and trundled slowly down to March, and so by changing to Ely.  The Fens looked very different in the cold bright sunshine to what they did yesterday.  One gets an impression of a remoteness unfelt even in Wales or Scotland.  Another change at Ely, into a Norwich-London train, packed to the very doors.  20 or 30 people had to get into the brake-van, where I got a seat on a pile of kitbags.  Everybody seemed fairly good natured except a stout, red-faced man who shouted to the young guard (he didn’t look a day more than 19) “What about putting another coach on?  We’ve paid our fares you know!  Bloody scandal, I call it!”  Nobody, not even the guard took the slightest bit of notice.

Tremendous amount of sugar beet to be seen all along the line at every station – literally hundreds of trucks at Ely.  In some places beet was being carted straight off the fields to railway trucks in bright pink carts! usually hauled by two Percherons.  Once a gang of Italians in bright green uniforms swept by, walking slowly along the top of a dyke.  Everywhere one sees the glittering drains running straight as railway tracks.

The marshes between the Bedford Rivers was a huge shining lake.

At last pulled into Cambridge at one p.m.  Registered at the Gt. Northern Hotel, and went off to find some lunch.  Tried the “Victory Café”, hung with British and Greek flags, Greek waiters dashing about, and a radio playing very loudly.  Very expensive – soup and fish, and nothing else came to 3/11.  A young fair haired soldier came in, and moved to sit an empty table near the window.  At once, a dark waiter dashed forward, crying loudly “No sir, not there sir … I keep that table for a party of four.”  “Oh what the hell!” shouted the soldier.  “I’ll bloody well go somewhere else,” slamming the door so hard that the crockery rattled and the card saying “Café Open” fell down, showing the word “Closed” on the other side.  Everybody looked very uncomfortable.

Walked along to Downing Street, but the archaeology museum was shut – is apparently always shut on Saturday afternoons.

Crowds of pretty girls cycling off to hockey, with brilliantly coloured scarves and stockings, pleated skirts, and their hair blowing in the winds.  Plenty of black students about.  Noticed two black students in gowns, walking with a white woman. 
 
Walked down Trumpington Street, to the Fitzwilliam.  Love to see the clear streams of water trickling down the concrete gutters.  Went into the Museum – lovely, gracious, quiet.  Walked around for an hour or so, vaguely admiring the glorious treasures.

Then to the Folk Museum, to go carefully over the collections there.  Lambeth has done a splendid job.  The stuff is shown as well as can be under the circumstances.  Should have thought that there was some considerable risk in having so many small objects not in cases, but Lambeth told me that the only precaution he has found necessary is to compel all Americans to enter their names and serial numbers in the Visitors’ Book.  Lambert says that the Museum finances are almost non-existent, and that he and his wife keep the place going more as a labour of love than anything else.  (He of course has a salary as Rural Industries Organiser).  He was rather depressed altogether, and told me of the endless troubles he has with the Ministry of Labour, when trying to get blacksmiths released from industry to take up rural work.  The Ministry of Labour refuse to admit any necessity for rural farriers.

Stayed to tea, and talked until half past 8.  Told me that a few ‘divers’ had passed S. of Cambridge, and got as far as Sandy and Potton in Bedfordshire.  A rocket fell at Fulbourn, about 6 miles away, but no serious damage.

Leaving Castle Street, felt rather sick, and a bad headache.  Decided not to have anything to eat but to go to a cinema instead.  Saw “The Eve of St Mark”, a very poor thing indeed.  But felt better.

Crowds in the Market Place and the streets, bright lights everywhere, undergraduates in gowns, bareheaded, wandering about.  Poor devils, they are almost all on army or air-force courses – hardly any other forms of study allowed.  On walls people had chalked: “Down with Churchill”, “Up with Churchill”, “Amery must Go”, “Save Greece”, “Britain is Fascist”, and so on.  Lots of posters about political meetings.

Walked back to the Gt. Northern Hotel at 10.30.  Seems decent and clean, but no hot water in bedroom.  Just was I was falling asleep, about 11.30, somebody in the street began shooting, single shots, then two together, about a dozen shots in all.  Sounded like a rifle.  Looked out, but could see nothing. Very curious.

8th December 1944 - Wisbech

Friday
Got away from Cambridge at 10 o’clock.  A dark morning, and icy cold, but thawed a little towards 11.  The train ran on over the endless Fens, Percheron horses tailing across the black peaty wastes.  Went through Histon, famous for its Percherons, Swavesey, St Ives, Chatteris, and so to March, where the line to Colchester came curving in.  Thought of the trains going to Edinburgh.

Long wait at March, and the rain came swooping across the dykes and muddy fields, bitterly cold.  Off at last, through a tiny station called Coldham, and so to Wisbech, running in past mean suburbs to a dirty, dilapidated station.  Nearly 2 hours to do 40 miles.

First sight of the town incredibly depressing – the rain was turning to sleety snow – rows of poor houses, half empty shops, many of them shut, a dreadful air of misery.  Yet we are always told that the Fens are so rich.

Walked through the streets, past a ruined cinema standing on the banks of a derelict canal, asking people for a direction to the Museum.  Nobody seemed to have heard of it.  Wandered on, across the canal, across a single track railway, until it was obvious that the town was ending in that direction.  Turned back through more dreary streets, and found the church, with the Museum on the far side of it, facing a neat little square of Georgian houses.  The front wall seems to have sunk on one side, like so many buildings do up here, owing to the unstable nature of the soil.  At the far end of the square is a long low house of yellow brick, with stone dressing, almost hidden behind a high brick wall and stone gateway, called “The Castle”. 

Went up the steps and was greeted by a gaunt sad faced man, with a very red nose, looking for all the world like a dyspeptic bloodhound, who was accompanied by an equally sad looking parson.  This was Curtis- Edwards, the Curator, and Canon Stalland, the Vicar, who is one of the Trustees. 

In the main gallery is a lot of very poor looking natural history specimens, of which Curtis Edwards seemed to be very proud, and some first class ethnological material.  What little Roman pottery there is in the place is hidden in an upper gallery in this room.

I asked what was the relationship between the Museum and the Town Council?  Curtis Edwards said very bad indeed, yet I notice on the reports that the previous Town Clerk was a member of the Museum Committee.

During the past 10 years the Reports show a variation of income from £1800 to £500 per annum.  Anyway, there seems to be ample to pay the not very high salary of £225, and no doubt I shall be able to extract a grant of some sort out of the Town Council, who at present pay nothing at all.

There is a caretaker living on the premises, so that the place is open at any hour.  Can't say I like the look of her very much – a cross eyed old woman, with a particularly unpleasant expression.

It was now lunch time, so went off and booked a room at the “White Lion” on South Brink, opposite the wonderful row of Georgian houses on the other Brink.  Had a good lunch at a café just behind the Museum.  

Back to Museum, and spent the rest of the afternoon there.  The variety of exhibits is quite astounding, but a lot of these are rubbish.  Among the pictures is an alleged Constable, two Birkett Fosters, a Rosa Benham, and a reputed Richard Wilson.  Most of them look very doubtful.

Local archaeology has been almost entirely neglected.  Asked Edwards if he ever got anything from street excavations, but he said he’d never seen any.  

The worst snag is the occupation of the basement by the ARP people, who have been there quite illegally since 1939.  The seizure of the property without any requisition notice led to a question in the House, but there are apparently persons here who can flout the Law, the Commons and the King if they wish.  The Museum Committee were terrified to make a stand, in case they were accused of “sabotage”!  So, at any rate, says Edwards.

These wretched people have been here 5 years, doing considerable damage, and they not only show no signs of going but only this week have moved in a lot more material.  The worst damage is undoubtedly to the Town Library, which was carted away in sacks because some man called Ollard, the ARP controller, could not bear to sleep in a room lined with books.  All the books are in the old workhouse cells, and are said by Edwards to be in a shocking condition.  A lot of pictures belonging to the Museum have also been sent away.  Edwards is not quite sure where.

Find it very hard to believe that the ARP people can sit here and still refuse to pay rent or compensation, but apparently in these areas that sort of thing can happen.

Curtis Edwards asked me to go home with him for tea.  We walked through several gloomy sordid streets, lit by glimmering gas lamps, peopled by individuals who looked as if they came out of a play by Chekov or Ibsen – old women, dressed in rags, with shawls over their heads, men in gumboots.  As we walked by one shop, the door opened and a can full of filthy rubbish was thrown out onto the street.  We crossed the stagnant canal which I saw earlier on and then we walked over what Edwards referred to as “the park” but which appeared to be an open common crossed by a few footpaths.  On the far side was a single track railway line, and then we reached his house in Clarkson Avenue (Named after Clarkson who worked with Wilberforce, and who was born in this town).

Mrs Edwards, elderly, slight, and very pleasant, made me most welcome and we had tea.  Talked a bit, and found that the old man was quite definitely assuming that I should take the job.  After tea, suggested we should walk round to the next street and see the senior Vice-President of the Committee, Mr Guy Pearson, which we did, going down some narrow passages and coming out into a road of very modern villas.  In one of these we found dear old Mr Pearson.  We talked for an hour or so, and parted most amicably.  He is the Senior Vice-President, and is more or less in charge of the management of the Committee, as they don't appear to have a chairman.  Guy Pearson looks astonishingly like Father.

Curtis Edwards wanted me to go back to his again, but I declined, as I had to be back at the “White Lion” for a meal not later than 6.30, so left him, and he warned me not to go back through “The Park” as I might “get lost in the blackout”.  Apparently he has not yet noticed that the street lamps are now lit again.

The evening meal at the “Lion” was pretty bad, in a hot airless room, full of loud mouthed commercial travellers.  One rather jolly looking woman with a Welsh accent, was obviously from her talk a schoolmistress.

Afterwards walked out and stared at the river, wandered through a few more streets and lanes.  Found the “Old Horsefair”, a wide irregular open space on the bank of the stinking canal, rather reminiscent of some of the “squares” in North London.  Several good Georgian houses about.

There are two cinemas in Hill Street, both very tawdry looking, and both surrounded by howling mobs of filthy children.  There was formerly a third cinema, but that was bombed 2 or 3 years ago.  Three separate attacks have been made on the town, but none recently, and of course flying bombs and rockets are quite unknown here.

7th December 1944

Thursday
Cloudy, fine, warmer.  Miss Bentley says several great explosions in the night, shaking house, but I heard nothing.


Am beginning to worry about my money, but both the Corporation and War Agricultural Committee owe me a little.  To home, saw Father, who wished me luck, then caught 4 p.m. to Cambridge.  Long tedious journey in semi-dark carriage.  To Folk Museum, and the Lambeths made me very welcome, and apologised for having only vegetarian food.  Much talk about Museums, Wisbech, etc.  Interesting to find that even at Cambridge, Wisbech is regarded as the ends of the earth.  Lambeth never goes there.  He says the present Curator, Curtis-Edwards, is “a little peculiar”, but then what Curator isn’t?