15th October 1944 - Edinburgh

Sunday
Lovely day.  Proposition made to go to Roslin Castle this afternoon.

Went out on very crowded bus.  City full of wandering crowds.  Got to chapel about 3.30.  Chapel utterly delightful – what a place this church would have been had it been completed.  Then to see the Castle, built in extraordinary manner at the side of a cliff.  Upper part being lived in, and used as a tearoom.  Went through the lower floors, weird galleries and vaulted rooms etc. but nothing of the same sort of feeling as Craig Millar.

Back 5.30pm full of girls who had been out riding, very smart.


Spent very. pleasant evening, reading and writing.  

14th October 1944 - Edinburgh

Saturday
Lay late.  Felt a little better and had first satisfactory meal since Thurs night.  In afternoon went to R.S.Ac.  Saw the Lord Provost come in with procession – the Town Guard (3), halbards, 18th C hats, 17th C coats, breaches red, white stockings, black buckle shoes.  Then the sword and the Mace.  The L.P. Daltry, 2 barflies, and the counsellors.  The Duke of Montrose came in with many other guests, military, naval, RAF, several kilted, good-looking women, artists etc.


Picture show rather weak.  Very pretty little girl there, with long fair hair, about 17 I should think, who figured as a portrait, Vivian by Hislop.  Tried to make myself go to Dr Lamond, but nerve failed.  This evening writing and hearing about the proposals to build houses all over the meadows and Links.  Early bed.

12th - 13th October 1944 - Inverness to Edinburgh

Thursday
Dreadful stormy night.  Suffered from toothache for 4 hours, and wandering pains all over body.  Wind howled and struck among the roofs.  Woke to find sky clearing, but bitterly cold.  Thinking about Ann Mclean.   Phoned and arranged to meet her.  Paid Mrs McB 18/- (cheap) packed, took cycle to station.  Saw Meg – very worried about her sister Issy – very ill.  Called at home after lunch, and said goodbye.

Few showers during afternoon.  Saw “Pride and Prejudice” again after many years.  Walked up and down river bank by the Cathedral.  At last she came in blue coat.  Had tea at Playhouse.
(Note: Invernness 770, Ward 7 & 8, Nurse Ann Mclean)

She was strange, remote, so different from an English girl.  Gave me a photo, very nice.  Solemn in a way, but laughs nicely.  Refused to acknowledge any blandishments.  Told me I was “nobbut a loon to talk so”.  Told her she was not pretty but good looking.  Looked cynical.

Told her all about myself – why I was there etc.  She was very sensible, made excellent and professional suggestions, but alas no good to me.  Walked down to the Canal, then sat on a seat an hour under bright icy stars.  Did all the talking.  She saying “Och, it’s easy for yourself to talk this way when you’re 1000 miles from home.  You’ll forget me in a week or maybe less.”  Time sliding by like the gurgling black cold Ness.  Talked about sprites and water helpers, but she laughed and said, “Ach mon, but I’m no Highlander to believe such nonsense”.  A lovely deep voice.  Told me to stop thinking about stuffy old fossils.

At last goodbye at the hospital gate.  Promised to write to her.  Seemed to be pleased.

To station – crowded train.  Felt very sick and miserable.  Half an hour late in starting – why?  (Perth change)  Travelled with 2 RAF, one sailor (MN), 1 WAAF, and a farmer who got out at Newtonmore.

Felt the train toiling up Drumochter and the free rattling down the other side.  Perth 5am.  Not a drop of tea to be had.

Down over Loch Leven, yellow gold sky and a sharp shower of rain whipping across the lake.  Dunfermline – people getting in to go to work at E. More at Inverkeithing.  The Bridge – Grey Forth, with pale grey destroyers moving slowly down.  Drifting smoke of N. Queensferry.  In the carriage 2 RNVR men talking about ships and ports, landings on the Normandy coast etc.  The little blonde WAAF fast asleep beneath her overcoat.  Gave me a drink of tea, but still felt bad.

Waverley 8.30.  Seething roaring crowds, medley of Scottish, Polish, English etc.  Posters advertising Royal Scottish Agricultural Show tomorrow.


To Bruntisfield Links.  Washed and went to sleep on sofa.  Cold and aching.  No lunch, but nice tea, and good Scotch broth for supper.  Bed 10.30 after hot bath, but still aching terribly.  Thinking about Ann.

11th October 1944 - Inverness

Wednesday
Dull drizzle.  Felt very much better, and made a good breakfast.  Arranged to stay another night.

Down by the Ness and the old bagpiper, and at times an old tiny dirty bearded man playing a jigging tune on an accordion.

Skuas and herring gulls of monstrous size, crying and shrieking, swooping down to pick bits out of the water, fighting over a bit of food, drifting sideways on the swift current, anchored on far side in calmer water like a flotilla of little white yachts.

Amazing number of high class confectioners in Scotland, packed with delicious chocolates which nobody can buy.

Daily Express today says large force of heavy bombers out over coast last night.  News says only Mosquitos.  Apparently no divers last night.


To cinema cafĂ© – met Ann McLean [a nurse at Inverness Hospital].  Cinema, same show as last night.  Out in teeming rain.  Walked back to hospital.  Arranged to see her again.  Feel v. ill, though, better during day.  Bitter cold.

10th October 1944 - Inverness

Tuesday
Day overcast.  Wonderful view across River.  Bad night.  Felt very bad.  Went to Library almost came into a faint.  Had to leave.  Also practically nothing at breakfast, only a cup of coffee.  Seem to have bad stomach though.  No pain worth mentioning.  Saw the cattle market, quite a lot of Highland Cattle, and a number of Highland-Shorthorn cross.  Seemed fairly busy.  Very conveniently situated against rail sidings.

Wrote to father.  Must see Dr. L. again.

Went to cinema.  Drank tea.  Feel a little better tonight, but desperately lonely.  See in Evening Express that more divers over last night.  Gilbert & Sullivan on at Aberdeen.  Should like to see them.

Considerable number of gentlemen walking about in kilts and bonnets today.

Saw Exhibition of Contemporary Scottish Art at Town Hall – Rotten.

In Fraser’s saw several prints, McNab, Cock o' the North etc. all by Macbeth Raeburn.  Also A J Munnings, 'The Meet', the figure in the painting looks very like Col. Blewitt.  Beautiful Inverness prints, but everything very expensive.


Noticed in cinema that news is Scottish Movie-Tone news.

9th October 1944 - Aviemore to Inverness

Monday
Glorious sunny morning.  Sun came creeping over the mountains straight into the window.  The breakfast good.  Left 10.30.  Trees and gorse beginning to turn yellow, brown, grey.   Wonderful colouring.  To Carrbridge easily, magnificent arch of the ancient bridge still standing, a great semi-circle.  Much forestry work along here mostly Newfoundlanders.  

Saw the place where the fire was last year, near the Slochd.  Then Tomatin, where I had left Meg MacDougall [wartime curator of Inverness Museum] last year, and so Slochd summit, then down swiftly easily pleasantly to Moy, the island burial ground never to be used again, still and silent in the water.  Then Daviot, carting oats on little tumbrels, a girl loading, just below the church.  Sound of machine gun firing away in the hills.  Row of “fairy hills”, little tumuli near Culloden Moor.  Then far and deep blue was Moray Firth.  Long swift easy run down to Culcaback, past King David’s well and so to Inverness.  Surprised to find it on 2pm.  Had v. expensive lunch of sausages for 2/6, then to see Meg.  Glad to see me, but wanted to talk politics all the time.  Mad on Labour Party affairs.  Yet she has no despondency and looks forward eagerly.  Heard that a Jerry had been shot down off the Firth that morning, and that full blackout remains here.

Had tea, cinema for 2 hours then to ARP and Police station to see Meg on duty.  Introduced to Insp. Chisholm.  Heard that 3 Germans have escaped from a camp in N. Riding.

Got room through Mrs G. at top of high building in Church St.  Felt rather ill tonight.

NB Cinema Attendant aged 60, German wife gave birth at 51 about 2 yrs ago.


8th October 1944 - Struan

Sunday
Glorious morning.  No breakfast.  Across Grampians.  Managed to get a loaf at Edendon, from a very slatterly ill mannered young woman!

Sheep.  Herd of goats near Dalwhinnie.  Top of Drumochter down into Invernessshire.  Got cup of tea at lorry drivers’ place towards Newtonmore.  Tea bad.  First place I saw open since leaving Perth, over 60 miles back.  By now just gone 3. 

Clouds but no rain.  Saw mill working on Sabbath.


Sometimes saw nothing in an hour.  Mountains a wonderful indigo.